Tuesday, 15 April 2014

Day 5 - 3 May (Pangboche - Pheriche)

0830: Rough night. Went to bed but couldn't breathe very well. Bed at 2130 but got up for a pee, climbed back in bed and felt like I was fighting for air - n0 matter how much I breathed, it didn't feel like I could get enough air in. Got a bit panicky.
Rob suggested I keep my head up which helped. Woke at about 2 to see Rob thrashing around; gave me a hell of a fright as I thought he was having a seizure of some sort. I shone my torch at hima and he woke up - found out he was just trying to get into his sleeping bag!
I slept for 10-15 min at a time, so feeling pretty shattered this morning.

Went to visit Lama Guchi this morning at his home. We all had silk scarves in which we wrapped a donation R500 (about NZ$6). We filed in and presented the scarves to Lama Guchi "tashi dilei" then forehead touch. He then tied a red string around our necks. He chanted a mantra for us which was to give us a pure heart. He thanked Mike for bringing the yeti skull and hand.




We then visited the Pangboche monastery for Mike to hand over the skull and hand. The Lama and monks plus a whole lot of ladies gathered to see it - very special.
We had milk tea (again) and biscuits. It was a special moment for Mike (and us) to return something so important to the monastery.







Lunch (spaghetti, tomato sauce and cheese!) then hit the trail for Pheriche. Rainy start, then sun followed by a finish in the cold wind for 2 1/2 hours.
In Tsuro Og we saw a tiny wee girl about 4 or 5, carrying a drum of water on her headstrap. She fell over a few times but kept getting up - such a tragic, brave sight. Kunsang gave her a hand for the last few steps.




I'm inspired by the trinity of the enormous beautiful landscape; the spirituality that we see everywhere with the prayer wheels, chorten, prayer flags and poles, and the seemingly endless prayer/mantra carved stones; and the friendly, welcoming, strong, weathered, laughing and gorgeous Nepalese and Sherpa people. Today I really felt like we were really trekking in Nepal - hot, cold, windy, rainy, Tibetan Lama, monasteries, challenged by altitude and bonding with a great team.
We're staying in the Himalaya Hotel in Pheriche with a huge dining room and fire. Toilets in the hall-way (sit-down with a tub of water beside it and a jug to flush. Used paper goes in a bin ...) and big rooms - cold though.




For a change, having spaghetti, tomato sauce and cheese :-)
As Stephen said, food is a function here ...
97bpm 89% 5l water

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